Riding the right wave for your trip

15 June 2015 | Travel Stories

Who hasn't dreamt of taking a backpack, a board under the arm and going on a solo surftrip to the other side of the world?

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Kuta Beach, Bali

I still remember the day I stood in front of my world map and dotted the spots I wanted to go surfing. Imagine yourself on the moon wondering where you are going to build your future home. Unthinkable? Well, that's pretty much how I felt at that moment.

Then there's that famous day when you get your tickets, and this time you go. But between the first and second step there are often many obstacles that prevent us from taking the step. Family ties, fear of the unknown, cultural and financial barriers are all things that can prevent us from leaving.

Yet these are often excuses, we are often caught up in the fear and uncertainty of what lies ahead. The truth is that it is not easy to set off into the unknown. It is a project like any other that deserves to have objectives, preparation and above all we must ensure that it is not a simple "escape" from our daily lives.

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San Franscico bay

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Ocean side, SF, California

However, if we find the right way, if we know why we should go and how; an extraordinary experience will await us. Surfing in Australia, Indonesia, Africa, New Zealand, Fiji, South America and Latin America is possible.

To succeed in leaving I remember going to see a mental coach who was in fact my supervisor at the time. His guidance allowed me to take the step, the step I didn't feel able to take.

This step took me to the tube waves of Indonesia, the virgin waves of New Zealand, the big waves of Chile and many more.

Going on a surf-trip for a longer or shorter period of time is a unique experience that I wish all surfers.

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Piha surf spot, New Zealand

It's a pretty incredible experience. You are there; you leave, you arrive with your board in an unknown place you learn to listen to others, to observe the waves, to remain humble and respectful. You're caught up in the urge to shout thank you to the world, to the locals, and at the same time to keep this incredible feeling inside you forever.

You've got it all planned out, and there you are, in front of perfect waves. So you wax your board, jump in the water, do a few ducks and then you are riding the wave of your life. It remains exceptional because you went to get it, because more than surfing it's a success, a performance that brings you a lot of well-being.

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Anse vata, New Caledonia

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Uluwatu, Bali

But going from dream to reality is where it all happens, and the difference is in the mind.

Mentally it is very strong but also very hard to leave. Preparing for a surf-trip can be learnt quite quickly but taking the step to leave is often quite another thing.

You have to set goals, deal with your thoughts and emotions that a trip encompasses. So when it comes to a round-the-world trip, for example, the transition from everyday life to departure can be very complicated. Those few things that many say they can't do, for some it is a dream, for others it is a reality.

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@Noé Grandotto, 360° Surf Ambassador

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